The Unfinished Trip to Zion

  I feel like I do a decent job of planning for the trips I take.   Angels Landing is located in Zion National Park, Utah.  Its known for the beautiful sandstone cliffs as well as many other beautiful places to check out.  Our adventure though was set on making it to the top of Angels Landing. It is a 5.4mile hike with 1630ft of elevation gain.  Its labeled as one of the most dangerous hikes in the US, because a handful of people have slipped and fallen to their death.  So we knew what we were getting into. We just didn't account for some crazy weather that had came through the days prior and the effect it would have on the trail.

  

   Again this trip started from the Las Vegas Airport, we landed around 1PM and immediately set out for Zion National Park.  Its actually a really cool drive, the Landscapes change from desert to mountain as you go up in elevation the mountains continue to rise.  I noticed the snow capped peaks begin to show.  I was so glad I wasn't driving and I could shoot all these places out the window of our rental car.  You ever have those moments where you see pictures in Black and White, it was like Ansel Adams was sitting next to me. That was what flooded my mind as we drove into the park.  The clouds were whisping off the tips.  The contrast from the the snow mixed with the rocks was amazing.  Ansel would have been on top of the car shooting with his giant tripod.

One thing that we didn't factor into our time line on this trip is how much earlier the sun would set then it did in Vegas. So as we arrived at the trail head we were about an hour later than we had planned.  We started out on the trail and as we got about a 1/4 mile into it we ran into some other hikers that asked if we had chains? Brian and I looked at each other confused and both said no.  Not really sure what chains were for we kept going.  The trail starts out flat and you walk along the river that cuts through the valley. 3/4 of a mile into it you really start going up but the view back into the valley is one that is incredible!  Its one that if this is as far as you can make it, thats fine you won't be disappointed! Its from this point I took one of my all time favorite photos!  Keep going though and you eventually come to the Walters Wiggles.  Its a section of zig zags up the mountain that on this trip was frozen ice and snow.  It was here that I realized we needed spikes on our shoes.  By this time my buddy Brian was quite a bit ahead of me so by the time I got to the top, he was no where to be found.  I couldn't find any tracks in the snow, my shoes had no grip and I was pretty much crawling up along a sheer cliff.  There is some chains up top to hold onto in sections but once you get up to Scout Lookout you're basically you're on your own.  My mind was starting to get a little nervous,  my unanswered calls to Brian were getting scarier and scarier every time I called out.  Finally I heard him yell back, he was on the other side of the ridge.  We met up and he said you have to come look at this,  we walked around the ridge and I saw the little ice covered trail up to the top of Angels Landing.  We both stood in silence before we both said we can't do this.  I've never turned around on a hike but without the right shoes and equipment this was a death wish waiting to happen if we continued.  We both agreed we needed to do this one again when there wasn't snow and ice.  Angels Landing Hike

  We headed back down, it was pitch black by the time we got back down Walter's Wiggles and were just making up time to get back down till we saw a set of eyes ahead on the trail.  We couldn't tell what it was but knowing there is Mountain Lions around and this thing was cat like it sent chills down my back.  We made noise and continued on as it had jumped off the trail, we made it to the next switchback and looked back, finally seeing the animal to be one of the cutest animals Ive ever seen in my life.  A Ringtail cat.  Apparently they're super rare to see.  If they are its sad cause they're frekain cute!  We made it back to the river and the stars were out in full force.  I told Brian I wanted to shoot the stars real quick.  The stars always amaze me and seeing them with little light pollution is mind blowing.  Hopefully you've seen a starry sky like that!

   So this one is the one that doesn't have a check mark by it.  Until it does it will always bug me. So cheers to you Zion you won this round. It was a beautiful place to see and check out but I can't wait to go back.  The Narrows, the Subway, and Observation Point are all hikes that I plan on doing when I go back!

Chasing the Light

 Chasing the Light, that's what we as photographers do right?  We wake up when we should be sleeping another 6 hours  in our comfy warm bed in hopes of trading that bed for who knows what.  Usually a hike that most choose to do in broad daylight when they have no time limit, instead IT could be -20 and blowing winds of 40mph in hopes that the Sun will bless us that day with some amazing painted skies. The kind you see on IG and think holy crap that can't be real?  Thats what its all about right? Chasing light? 

   What if I told you that journey has been everything to me but not for those specific reasons?  Well those reasons are the reasons I get up at 2AM but why do I chase the light?  I think I've came to realize that I chase the light because its this light that has brought me from the darkest part of my life.  Its this light that when I'm battling those inner thoughts that tell me to quit and that I'm no good.  Its the light that has brought me from the darkness that was an emptiness in my soul.  

  When my Mom passed away it sent me into a dark part of my life that I would love to forget, don't take that too far, I didn't do anything bad but I was far from the person I was before.  I will say if it wasn't for an extremely caring group of friends and family I don't know where I would have ended up.  I can about promise I wouldn't have stayed working for Stewart Haas.  As every year that passed after she passed I found myself further and further from who I was, burying myself in work and things I didn't really care about.  I was married to a very nice girl but one that wasn't right for me.  I remember in 2014 looking in my closet, I had collared shirts, jeans, all this clothes that was like I was living out of someone else's life.  I didn't own a single Hurley shirt.  My racing shirts were all packed away and I had nothing that I did for myself. I didnt even know what that would have looked like.  

   So I took a trip,  to find myself.  Where it all began, for me, Colorado. I had no plans. Other than a  brief list of places I have heard about all my life.  I headed west hitting Glenwood Springs. I had dinner and then walked back through town past the hot springs.  I had brought my Moms camera.  No idea how to use it but I wanted to try it out, the thing was though I was scared/embarassed to use it.  So I took mostly iPhone shots.  This may have been one of the first times in my life I remember purposefully waking up for sunrise.  I hiked up to where doc Hollywood was said to be buried, but all that I really remember was this beautiful stream of clouds going through the valley below me.  first spark.  I left Glenwood, stopped in Grand Junction at the hospital where I was born and headed south on the 50 and eventually the 550.  One of the most beautiful roads I've ever drove on to where I ended up in Ouray. A little mountain town that I had heard about all my life.  I stayed at the motel my Mom worked at 35 years earlier.  I hiked up to some beautiful waterfalls, I went to Box Canyon, hiked along the river and came up to a house that even without asking my Aunt I knew that was where she had lived.  This part of the trip was different though I did take the camera, clicking shots of everything I possibly could. Then I woke up on the third day and went for a run, as I made it past the first mile the sun was just starting to clip the tops of the massive mountains that surround Ouray.  Those were and still are some of my most favorite photos I've ever taken.  This was spark #2.  I felt alive.  I felt like that little kid that grew up loving every minute of everyday was still there.  I took off and headed south to make it to Durango.  I was taking pictures at every turn, literally.  Parked in a snow bank to take random pictures of some old abandoned home along the road, probably belonged to some miners who knows how long ago.  I stopped in Silverton, almost got the rental car ran over by a train, sorry guy, and then I made it to Durango.  I barely got a hotel room, thanks to a nationwide soccer tournament,  I found a train station and walked through that, the whole time trying to figure out what the hell these buttons on the camera did still.  Took a picture of this beautiful train and once I got back to the hotel I noticed that the number on the train was 42, My Mom's number.  It was a sign, well to me it was.  She was saying hello.  I tell you all of this because on this random 1100 mile trek around that state, I began to find little pieces of myself.  I had bought some clothes that looked like me, that felt like me.  My light was beginning to flicker.  

   I made it back to Denver, just barely thanks to random  blizzard. It was May!! I didn't know it snowed in MAY! I sat on the plane getting ready to take off thinking, I'm going to live here one day. I don't know when but I will.  

   Once I got back I was different, we went onto win the championship that year, I continued to pour my heart and soul into racing. Every minute that was what my life was all about up to that point.  Something inside me was different though, I started feeling this sense of what's next.  I wasn't happy, I should have been but Iwasnt.  Here is the part that may or may not ever get shared, I was battling this depression, I know what you're thinking oh that's totally normal you were going through a divorce, no I battle this all the time, I don't know why but I do.  I thought back to my Colorado trip and the hikes I went on there, I started hiking more in NC. I found some places that seemed amazing.  I bought a cheap starter camera, still afraid to take it out and use it though.  Until one day in 2016 I went on hike up Hawksbill, I remember thinking I don't care who sees me holding this camera I'm going to shoot with it. Well I did, mostly with the totally wrong white balance and in Jpeg so they were junk but I did it! Thiswas the spark that lit the fire.  From that Moment, I haven't gave two shits about who sees me holding a camera and you know what?  I have been chasing the light ever since but more importantly that light shined on that person inside me that has been begging to be set free ever since.  

  It must be every time I look through that lens, the light that goes through the camera doesn't just hit the sensor, it hits my heart and fills it up.  This is why I will gladly wake up at 2am to go hike in some crazy ass weather all for the hopes of getting to see that blessing of a sky we all dream about.  Because when I'm holding this camera, I am me I am who Im meant to be and nothing feels better than those moments when I'm looking thorough that eye piece.  The places that camera has taken me has been unbelievable. I've seen more of the world with every step in the last couple years than I had in my first 35 years.  

   Today though I was at one of my low points, I was at the point that all those thoughts start racing through my brain, enough to where I made myself get off my phone and stop thinking.  I gave myself a 2 hour break where I couldn't look at any social media, I couldn't do anything related to it.  I went and had coffee and donuts.  I drove to academy to buy a new face mask that hopefully I can talk and not have to pull it uo every 7 seconds.  I went to the doggy store and of course got stuff to spoil the crap out of Cramer. At 11:02 I saw a comment from Canon thought well that's cool, only to find out that they had shared one of my posts on their Instagram/Facebook feed! I have written them down every single year since 2018 when I first started thinking this WAS the path I wanted to take.  Every single year.  Finally todayJanuary 31st 2021 it happened.  So my light may not be fully illuminated yet but I can tell you this, I know where to find the spark.  I can finally look at my reflection and see myself.  Not the shadow. 

Following Her Footsteps

I remember when I was a kid, I traveled up and down the West Coast with my Mom as she took pictures for various Drag racing magazines, News Papers and probably whom ever would buy them.  Personally I don't know how she did it but I do know as a kid this was a dreamland.  I loved race cars and I ws in the middle of Drag racing like most kids will never know. I rode bikes with Ashley Force I sword fought with Scott Kalitta, I was taken to victory lane with John Force. I still cant believe I was able to do half the things I did.

   My Mom to me was one of the greatest Drag racing photographers there ever was (yes I'm biased) the only thing is she had me.  She couldn't put into the career she loved like the other photographers could because as a single parent she had a greater responsibility.  So as I got older it became harder and harder for her to pursue that career.  Until she finally stopped.  She did transition into other motorsports but I don't think it was where her heart was.

   As I've gotten older I've thought about what she put on the back burner for me, a part of me wants to finish what she started and take this gift she gave me to where she should have gone.  A year ago I went to the Drag races here in Charlotte at the Zmax dragway.  I of course brought my camera but I was stuck in the stands.  I had tried to sneak onto the sidelines but never made it very far. I knew there was something I had to do.  So soon as I left the track I started thinking of ways to get out there on the starting line.  I went straight to the top, and reached out to a friend that runs the drag strip. She said absolutely and to remind her in August. I did just that and she fulfilled her promise but I soon realized she was giving me tickets to her personal family suite.  As nice as that was it wasn't where I wanted to be, I needed to be on the starting line.  So I reached out to a friend whom worked for Don Schumacher Racing.  She never hesitated. She gave me the email to the person at NHRA that I needed to email.  Thats where I thought the road stopped, she sent me the request form and on that it said "Who am I shooting for?" "what credentials do you have?" Basically why in the world would they let someone like me shoot there? I thought that was it but my buddy Brian didn't let me take that as a no. He said send it, he went over me and reached out to Ashley himself, she said no tell him to send it we've taken care of the rest.

   So I did.  A few days later I got an email with full on photo credentials right down to the parking pass just like my Mom used to have plastered all over her old Mazda.  Yes I about lost it at that moment but that wasn't the pinnacle moment.

   I showed up at the track at about 11AM on Friday. I picked up my credentials and walked in.  Even though I have been to a hundred Drag races this one felt like the first time.  It felt like I was in uncharted territory. I was nervous.  Probably the first time in my life I've been nervous at a track.  That feeling of not belonging wouldn't go away but race cars were going down the track so I went and walked past the security guard that had turned me around the year before.  I went to starting line and put my bag down, grabbed my camera and started clicking.

The cars were one of the lower divisions. I don't even know what they were but it didn't matter.  Soon as those cars started up I forgot that feeling....until I got a tap on the shoulder and a fellow photographer said hey you cant stand there. See that yellow tape and the cone down there thats where we can stand.  It was a quick reminder that I didn't belong, yet.  So I moved down there and just tried to stay out of the way of the others.  Soon I was getting the timing down of these Super gas cars.  The came Top Alcohol.  They are loud compared to most other race cars. One by one they went by and I got the timing down.  I looked at the photos I had taken and knew I wanted to find something different.  So I changed lenses and focused on getting them going by.  Its tough the cars are so fast but its the vibrations that are what really make it tough.

   I noticed that the other side of the track I could get closer to the cars.  I moved over there knowing the Nitro cars were next.  I dropped my bag and waited for the track crews to get the track ready.  The Funny cars were first.  The cars fired up and it was a feeling that I will never forget. If you've never been to a drag race I strongly recommend you go just once.  The cars with over 11,000HP will shake you to your core. They will rattle your teeth to where its almost unbearable.  Now try to take a picture of one of them as they go by. In less than a second they are going over 100MPH. Let that sink in.  The thing is I didn't have much time to learn, I needed to get it done. I don't know how but I took to them, even more so than my camera, as some of the photos were sideways because my camera couldn't tell if it was upside down or right side up.  Every pass I felt like I got better and better.  Then Cruz Pedregon came up.  I had learned that the wide angle was giving me some really cool shots.  As he hit the gas I panned with him. Taking about 7 pictures in a second. One of which was this totally badass shot, flames coming up from the pipes and the tires trying to rip the pavement up.

Once the Nitro classes were done with their first round I went back to the pits and got to watch the crews up close, rebuilding them in their 90 minute time frame.
These guys are incredible. They literally rebuild these cars from the ground up after every single pass.  Everyone knows their role. Every crew member taking each bolt as meticulous focus. The next time I go this is going to be the story I focus on but I'll leave that for next time!

  So round two.  The sun had set. The cold air had moved in, I found my spot amongst all the other photographers and waited.  Finally the sound of the starter spinning over the motors could be heard.  The crowd all stood up and the cars began to roll through the water box before they finally hit the gas to do their burnout.  Flames 6 feet high are shooting out of the header pipes. The cars were flying by me but I wasn't phased. I was getting some shots that I loved.  I didn't feel like I didn't belong anymore.  I felt like I was exactly where I belonged.  I knew the camera setup I wanted, I made changes on the fly. I got some amazing shots and even ones that the teams liked. One of the Funny Car drivers even saw my photo of him on Instagram and asked if he could buy it!  This was the moment I had dreamed of and I don't think Ive ever felt closer to my Mom then at the moment John Force made his pass.  John was the one that gave my Mom her first opportunity to shoot, he's always been a hero of mine just knowing where he came from and all the doors he had to knock down to become the greatest NHRA driver ever.

  Just shooting the cars wasn't the only thing I wanted to capture though. In my mind I have always been fascinated by the photos my Mom took of the drivers with their helmets on and strapped in the cars. I had tried all weekend to get the shot in my head but I didn't have a long enough lens to get the shot I envisioned.  So with Sunday getting rained out and me having to work I wasn't sure I'd be able to get it but luckily my boss Norman is awesome and let me leave early enough to catch the last two rounds. As I said earlier I was there shooting "for" Don Schumacher racing and their driver Jack Beckman had made it to the Finals. As they got ready to start the car Jack was sitting in the seat and thats when I saw it. I moved over to just in front of the car, they fired it up and the crew was doing their thing.  I waited for Jack to look up and got it. This photo is the one I had dreamed of all weekend and I got it!

  This was the night where I found myself as a photographer, the questions of if I belonged were gone.  That doubt of if I could even get those shots were gone and I cant wait to go back and do it again!  Hopefully once all this Covid is over and life gets back to normal the drag racing community will be back stronger than ever! To those of you that helped make this dream come true I can never thank you enough!

Death Valley in 4 hours.

Seems like most of my work trips turn into quick side trips to travelnevada.com Here’s a link that can help you find yours. My trip last year took us to Death Valley.  I had never really thought about DV as a place that would have blown me away the way it did. I went there mainly because I had seen some cool pictures of sand dunes.
the nearest National or State Park.  If there’s one within 2 hours we are going to try and find the time to make it.  Vegas is one of those places that offers so many options!
  We got off work around 3 and made the two hour trip to the entrance of the park a little after 5.  I knew we had a few hours before sunset, so we didn’t have a lot of time to mess around.  We made our first stop at Zabriskie Point. It is on the east side of the park. It’s hard to imagine this whole area used to be a lake bed but that’s what created or left behind all the sediments and formed the cool colors you’ll see when standing here.  Manly Beacon is the formation you cant help but stare at.  The rock is filled with different colored rock layers.  It’s Beautiful and I can only imagine that sunrise and sunset are incredible from this view point.

 We left Zabriskie Point and set off for Badwater Basin.  This is the lowest elevation within the United States at 282ft below sea level.  Ironically its only 84 miles away from the highest point in the Contiguous 48 United States.  This place is the one place that probably blew me away the most.  To look up at the cliff side above us and see the line where sea level was, was kind of surreal.  The ground is basically a salty crust.

With only a couple hours till sunset we left there and headed north to Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes.  The one place I had on my list to see. There is a 2.8 mile hike on alltrails.com we did most of this loop but I kind of ventured off once the sun started setting. The dunes here are incredible.  They were everything I had envisioned, the contrast from light to dark is incredible. The ridges look like they are perfectly formed.  If you’re into photography this is the place you’ll want to be.  Make sure you get to the tallest dune and shoot all of the colors you’ll see.  Also make sure you look in all of the directions, I know its easy to only look west at sunset but sometimes the best colors are going to be behind you. Also if you have someone with you have them walk along a distant ridge line and shoot them so you can tell just how small we are.

 I wish there was some clouds in the sky this night but don’t let that stop you from seeing the beauty that you’ll be surrounded by and even though there wasn’t any clouds to light up the sky, I was treated to some amazing color long after the sun had set.  The colors were broken up by the  Mountain ridges to the west. Luckily we didn’t leave too early.

So if you’re looking for a cool adventure only a couple hours from Las Vegas, don’t look past https://www.nps.gov/deva/index.htm  yes its hot, just bring lots of water and sunscreen.  It’s one park that will leave you wanting to go back I promise!

Murrays Mill fix

I think we all get in those creative ruts,  mine wasn't so much just not wanting to shoot but more so just uninspired.  Its March so the trees are still at that winter dormant time of year. I just don't find much beauty in bare landscapers. I started to get frustrated, I would go out to shoot something and just find myself questioning what I was even doing out there?  Why would anyone want to see these pictures.  So by mid March I hadn't really taken any shots that I liked or wanted to share.

 I was on my way home March 26th and the clouds had moved in,  the chances of a sunset seemed dim.  I got home walked my dog and went inside my house to watch tv or something, a couple hours later I just happened to look outside and noticed there was actually sunlight.  So I threw on some clothes and took off driving, where to go though. 🤔 It popped in my head I hadn't been to one of  my favorite spots in way too long!  Murrays Mill! I got to the mill about 20 minutes before sunset.  I was the only one there, the winds were calm the temperature was mid 70s, it was the perfect.

Grassy Ridge, The view that doesn't stop

 If you've ever wanted to find that place around North Carolina that you could see for miles and miles. The hike from Carvers Gap to Grassy Ridge Bald is the hike  you need to check out. Not only is it part of the most iconic trails in the country but it gives you views of Tennessee, North Carolina and Virginia as well as being  known as one of the most beautiful sections of the Appalachian Trail.

Appalachian Trail Looking at Jane and Grassy Ridge Balds

The trail Starts at Carvers Gap right on the state line of North Carolina and Tennessee. There is a spacious parking area along State Route TN-143 and NC-261. From the parking area you will see a wooden split rail fence toward the East, there are steps that will lead you through the Fence and from there you will be on the Appalachian Trail hiking up through a beautiful forest of trees. Twisting and turning as you ascend up Round Bald, which is roughly .7 tenths of a mile to the summit. You may be tempted to just stop there and can, the views here are incredible, you can see Mt Mitchell and Black Mountain to the south but I promise you need to keep going your views to the west are still obstructed by Jane and Grassy Ridge.

Jane Bald

As you descend down you will see Jane Bald straight in front of you, the hike up Jane is a decent ascent, I did this in snow and ice, making it more treacherous. Overall, considering the conditions, it wasn't bad. The elevation of Jane Bald is 5807ft and now you'll see Grassy Ridge staring you in the face with its elevation of 6189ft.

Tunnel of  Rhododendron

Once you leave the top of Jane you'll lose 100 feet before climbing up 500 feet before reaching the summit of Grassy Ridge. You will go through a cool tunnel of rhododendrons, I can only imagine this stretch in June is simply breathtaking. This stretch of the hike is pretty strenuous but in no way would I rate it as hard so rest if you need to but keep going and you will come to the summit that will leave you speechless.

Charlotte from Grassy Ridge Bald

Keep walking through the meadow along the trail and you will reach a cliff that will show you a panoramic view that will leave you speechless, to the east you will see Grandfather Mountain, to the right of there you will see Hawksbill and Table Rock mountains along the Linville Gorge. As you look at these two mountains if you happen to have a 500mm lens on your camera its this direction on a clear day you can see the skyline of Charlotte, which is around 135 miles away. As you look to the right you'll see the BlueRidge Mountains as far as you can see before you come up to the 6685ft giant, Mt. Mitchell, the highest peak east of the Mississippi. If you are like me you will be in awe of just how beautiful this spot is.

So if you find yourself yearning for some unobstructed views of the Appalachian Mountains, then this Jaw Dropping 5 mile roundtrip hike is made for you. Sunrises here are what postcards are made of and I can only imagine sunsets are just as awe inspiring!!

Mt. Mitchell

Looking north to Tennessee

Grandfather Mountain

Meadow on Grassy Ridge